Mexico City, Mexico – The walls of the iconic El Taquito restaurant have long been adorned with framed photographs that tell the story of a century-old establishment interwoven with the history of Mexico. Presidents, artists, bullfighters, and journalists once dined under its roof, with the likes of Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, and María Félix among its patrons. Yet, the renowned restaurant, a symbol of Mexico City’s Historic Center, is set to close its doors in this location and relocate, driven out by a surge in street vendors that has dramatically altered the landscape around it.
El Taquito’s origins date back to 1917 when founders Marcos Guillén González and Conchita Rioja de Guillén opened a modest grocery store in the Historic Center. Initially, they sold fruits and vegetables, but Conchita’s homemade Mexican snacks soon gained popularity, leading the couple to expand into a small restaurant on the corner of Del Carmen and República de Bolivia streets. Over time, this humble eatery evolved into a full-fledged restaurant, which has since become an integral part of the city’s cultural and social fabric.
The restaurant’s rise to fame can be attributed to its prime location near the National Palace, the epicenter of Mexican political power. It became a favorite haunt for politicians, including Emilio Portes Gil, interim president of Mexico from 1928 to 1930. However, it was the restaurant’s close ties to the bullfighting community that truly cemented its status. The founder’s friendship with prominent bullfighters, particularly Rodolfo Gaona, drew the political and artistic elite to the restaurant after bullfights, creating a unique convergence of culture within its walls.
One of El Taquito’s most legendary patrons was the actress María Félix, who frequented the restaurant with such regularity that she had eight waiters dedicated to her service. Félix even hosted lavish gatherings at the restaurant, with tables arranged in a “U” shape to ensure she remained the center of attention. The restaurant’s culinary offerings were even featured at the wedding of Félix and Jorge Negrete, famously dubbed “The Wedding of the Century.”
El Taquito’s reputation extended far beyond Mexico’s borders, attracting international celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and U.S. President John F. Kennedy. In 1962, the Mexican newspaper Esto reported on Monroe’s visit, highlighting her quick mastery of the “taco technique.” The restaurant also hosted notable figures such as King Charles III of the United Kingdom, further solidifying its place in history.
In 1979, El Taquito played a role in planning Pope John Paul II’s first visit to Mexico. The abbot of the Basilica of Guadalupe, Guillermo Schulenburg, a regular customer, made arrangements at the restaurant, even inviting Rafael Guillén Sr., the son of the founders, to accompany him to the Vatican. Though Rafael Sr. could not attend, his son Marcos traveled in his place, becoming part of the delegation that convinced the Pope to visit Mexico. During the papal visit, El Taquito provided the menu for a banquet attended by 2,000 people at the Basilica of Guadalupe, an event that has become a cherished memory in the restaurant’s storied history.
Despite its illustrious past, El Taquito has faced significant challenges in recent years. The increasing presence of street vendors in the Historic Center has drastically reduced foot traffic to the restaurant, leading to a steep decline in sales. Rafael Guillén Hernández, the current owner and grandson of the founders, lamented that the once prime location had become a liability, with street closures and detours further compounding the problem. In a recent interview with Reforma, Guillén revealed that sales had plummeted by as much as 90%.
The situation has been exacerbated by the arrival of migrants from Venezuela, Cuba, and Haiti, as well as the expansion of businesses selling Chinese products, which have transformed the commercial landscape of the Historic Center. Guillén expressed frustration at the lack of government intervention to regulate informal trade, which he believes has unfairly impacted established businesses like El Taquito.
Faced with these challenges, the decision was made to relocate the restaurant. In September, El Taquito will reopen approximately 12 kilometers away in the San José Insurgentes neighborhood. The new location, at Number 25 Miguel Noreña Street, is expected to open in time for Mexico’s national holidays, marking the start of a new chapter for the storied restaurant.
As El Taquito prepares to leave behind its historic home, it does so with a century’s worth of memories etched into its legacy. The move is seen not as an end, but as a rebirth—one that will hopefully allow this beloved institution to continue serving generations to come, much like it did for the countless presidents, artists, and everyday citizens who once gathered within its walls.
